Friday, December 14, 2012
Monday, December 10, 2012
Why should your Inspector checking for Voltage Drop?
- poor splices anywhere in the circuit
- loose or intermittent connections anywhere in the circuit
- corroded connections anywhere in the circuit
- inadequate seating of wire in the slot connection on back-wired “push-in type“ receptacles and switches.
- Low voltage to the equipment being powered, causing improper, erratic, or no operation - and damage to the equipment.
- Poor efficiency and wasted energy.
- Heating at a high resistance connection/splice may result in a fire at high ampere loads.
- Is the high resistance connection in contact with a combustible material?
- Is there air flow to dissipate the heat?
- Is the area around the connection insulated, so that heat cannot escape?
| Cause of Fire | No. Of Fires |
| Total Electrical Distribution System | 42,300 (100%) |
| Faulty Fixed Wiring | 15,400 (36%) |
| Switches, Receptacles, Outlets | 4,800 (11%) |
- Faulty fixed wiring - poor/loose splices, damaged connectors, improper installation and ground faults accounted for 94% of these fires.
- Receptacles and switches - loose/poor connections accounted for 59% of these fires.
- Lighting fixtures - loose or poor connections accounted for 37% of these fires.
Getting Ready for Winter
10 simple tips homeowners can use to ensure that their
homes are well prepared and more energy efficient throughout the coming months.
1.
Inspect
HVAC units and change furnace filters for maximum energy efficiency and cleaner
air.
2.
Turn
down or program thermostats to lower temperatures while at work or sleeping.
3.
Inspect
around windows and doors for gaps and use caulk or weather stripping to seal
any openings that could allow cold air and water to get in.
4.
Assess
the amount of insulation in your home because insufficient insulation can
result in inflated energy costs.
5.
Test
batteries in smoke alarms and carbon monoxide detectors to make sure they are
working properly.
6.
Visibly
check the fireplace opening for loose or missing brick and have screens in
place to protect from any embers that may escape.
7.
Look
for raised, loose or missing shingles, which can allow air and water to get in,
and replace if needed.
8.
Remove
hoses from outside spigots and store for the winter months.
9.
Clean
debris from gutters to prevent water from collecting and freezing.
10. Reverse ceiling fan blades to
push the rising hot air down and will help circulate it throughout the home.
Monday, February 14, 2011
Chlorine Bleach and Mold Clean Up (Let's Set the Record Straight!)
Chlorine bleach, commonly referred to as laundry bleach, is generally perceived to be an “accepted and answer-all” biocide to abate mold in the remediation processes. Well-intentioned recommendations of health departments and other state and local agencies are perpetuating that belief. The Occupational Health and Safety Administration (OSHA) who once recommended using chlorine bleach for mold abatement was the first federal agency to stop recommending the use of liquid bleach in mold remediation. Subsequently, The Environmental Protection Agency wrote-out/edited their A Brief Guide to Mold, Moisture and Your Home(EPA 402-k-02-003) to exclude their once recommended use of bleach as a mold clean-up agent.
Will chlorine bleach kill mold or not—yes or no? The answer is yes, but with a caveat. That answer comes from The Clorox Company, Oakland CA, manufacturer and distributor of Ultra Clorox® Regular Bleach. The company’s correspondence to Spore°Tech Mold Investigations, LLC stated that their Tech Center studies supported by independent laboratories show that “…3/4 cup of Clorox liquid bleach per gallon of water will be effective on hard, non-porous surfaces against… Aspergillus niger and Trichophyton mentagrophytes (Athlete’s Foot Fungus)”. Whether or not chlorine bleach kills other molds and fungi, the company did not say. The “hard, non-porous surfaces” part of the sentence is a caveat. Mold remediation involves the need to disinfect wood and wood-based building materials, all of which are porous materials. Thus, chlorine bleach should not be used in mold remediation as confirmed by OSHA’s and EPA's updated recommendations and suggested guidelines. The use of bleach as a mold disinfectant is best left to kitchen and bathroom countertops, tubs and shower glass, etc.
Clorine bleach is corrosive and that fact is stated on the product label (not to mention the exposure hazards of dioxins). Yet the properties of chlorine bleach prevent it from “soaking into” wood-based building materials to get at the deeply embedded mycelia (roots) of mold. The object to killing mold is to kill its “roots”. Reputable mold remediation contractors use appropriate products that effectively disinfect properly scrubbed and cleaned salvageable mold infected wood products. Beware of any mold inspector, mold remediation contractor or other individual that recommends or uses chlorine bleach for mold clean up on wood-based building materials.
The appearance of new mold and mildew household products on store shelves is on the rise. Most are dilute solutions of laundry bleach. The labels on these mold and mildew products state that they are for use on (again) hard, non-porous surfaces and not for wood-based materials. Instructions where not to apply the products are varied. A few examples where the branded products should not be applied include wood or painted surfaces, aluminum products, metal (including stainless steel), faucets, marble, natural stone, and, of course, carpeting, fabrics and paper. One commercial mold and mildew stain remover even specifically states it should not be applied to porcelain or metal without immediate rinsing with water and that the product isn’t recommended for use on Formica or vinyl.
Before purchasing a mold and mildew product, read and fully understand the advertised purpose of that product — and correctly follow the use instructions of a purchased product. The labeling claims on these new products can be confusing — some say their product is a mold and mildew remover while another says their product is a mildew stain remover and yet others make similar 'ambiguous' claims. Make double sure that the product satisfies your intended need on the surface to which it is to be applied. If your intention is to kill mold, make sure the product does exactly that and follow the directions for usage. Consumers may find that mixing their own diluted bleach solution will achieve the same results when used on surfaces recommended by manufacturers of commercial mold and mildew cleaning products — keep in mind that the use of chlorine bleach is not for use on mold infected wood products including wall board, ceiling tiles, wall studs, fabric, paper products, etc.
Conclusion.
Laundry bleach is not an effective mold killing agent for wood-based building materials and NOT EFFECTIVE in the mold remediation process. OSHA is the first federal agency to announce a departure from the use of chlorine bleach in mold remediation. In time, other federal, state and other public safety agencies are expected to follow OSHA’s lead. The public should be aware, however, that chlorine bleach solution IS an effective sanitizing product that kills mold on hard non porous surfaces and neutralizes indoor mold allergens that trigger allergies.
Wednesday, May 26, 2010
15 Tools That Every Homeowner Should Own
By Nick Gromicko and Rob London
The following items are essential tools but this list is by no means exhaustive. Feel free to ask an InterNACHI inspector during your next inspection about other tools that you might find useful.
1. Plunger
A clogged sink or toilet is one of the most disturbing problems that you will face. With a plunger on hand, however, you can usually remedy these troubling plumbing issues relatively quickly. It is best to have two plungers -- one for the sink and one for the toilet.
2. Combination Wrench Set
One end of a combination wrench set is open and the other end is a closed loop. Nuts and bolts are manufactured in standard and metric sizes and because both varieties are widely used, so you'll need both sets of wrenches. For the most control and leverage, always pull the wrench toward you, instead of pushing on it. Also, avoid over-tightening.
3. Slip-Joint Pliers
Use slip-joint pliers to grab hold of a nail, a nut, a bolt, and much more. These types of pliers are versatile because of the jaws, which feature both flat and curved areas for gripping many types of objects. There is also a built-in slip-joint, which allows the user to quickly adjust the jaw size to suit most tasks.
4. Adjustable Wrench
Adjustable wrenches are somewhat awkward to use and can damage a bolt or nut if they are not handled properly. However, adjustable wrenches are ideal for situations where you need two wrenches of the same size. Screw the jaws all the way closed to avoid damaging the bolt or nut.
5. Caulking Gun
Caulking is the process of sealing up cracks and gaps in various structures and certain types of piping. Caulking can provide noise mitigation and thermal insulation, and control water penetration. Caulk should be applied only to areas that are clean and dry.
6. Flashlight
None of the tools in this list is of any use if you cannot visually inspect the situation. The problem, and solution, are apparent only with a good flashlight. A traditional two-battery flashlight is usually sufficient, as larger flashlights may be too unwieldy.
7. Tape Measure
Measuring house projects requires a tape measure, not a ruler or a yardstick. Tape measures come in many lengths, although 25 feet is best. Measure everything at least twice to ensure accuracy.
8. Hacksaw
These are great for cutting metal objects such as pipes, bolts and brackets. Hacksaws look thin and flimsy, but they'll easily cut through even the hardest of metals. Blades are replaceable, so focus your purchase on a quality hacksaw frame.
9. Torpedo Level
Only a level can be used to determine if something, such as a shelf, appliance or picture, is correctly oriented. The torpedo-style level is unique because it not only shows when an object is perfectly horizontal or vertical, but it also has a gauge that shows when an object is at a 45-degree angle. The bubble in viewfinder must be exactly in the middle, not merely close.
10. Safety Glasses / Goggles
For all tasks involving a hammer or a power tool, you should always wear safety glasses or goggles. They should also be worn while you mix chemicals.
11. Claw Hammer
A good hammer is one of the most important tools you can own. Use it to drive and remove nails, to pry wood loose from the house, and in combination with other tools. They come in a variety of sizes, although a 16-ounce hammer is the best all-purpose choice.
12. Screwdriver Set
It is best to have four screwdrivers: a small and large version of both a flat-head and a Phillips- head screwdriver. Electrical screwdrivers are sometimes convenient, but they're no substitute. Manual screwdrivers can reach into more places and they are less likely to damage the screw.
13. Wire Cutters
Wire cutters are pliers designed to cut wires and small nails.
The "side-cutting" (unlike the stronger "end-cutting" style) style is handy, but not strong enough to cut small nails.
14. Respirator / Safety Mask
While paints and other coatings have become less toxic (and lead-free) over time, most still contain dangerous chemicals, which is why you should wear a mask to avoid accidentally getting them in your lungs. A mask should also be worn when working in dusty or dirty environments. Disposable masks usually come in packs of 10 and should be thrown away after use. Full and half-face respirators can be used to prevent the inhalation of very fine particles that ordinary facemasks will not not stop.
15. Duct Tape
This tape is extremely strong and adaptable. Originally, it was widely used to make temporary repairs to many types of military equipment. Today, it's one of the key items specified for home emergency kits because it is water-resistant and extremely sticky.
Monday, April 26, 2010
INSPECTION SERVICES
Pre-Purchase (Buyer's) Inspections
This type of inspection is usually performed after a property has been put on the market by a seller but before a potential buyer has taken possession of the property prior to the closing contract. The buyer will usually sign a conditional offer with the seller prior to ordering this type of inspection. If a property fails to meet the buyer's expectations as a result of the inspection, then the sale may fall through. In many cases, a Buyer's Inspection will help both the buyer and the seller to identify damage or other problems that may exist with a property so that both parties can either renegotiate the selling price or the seller's responsibilities to repair the property at the seller's expense prior to the final close.
Pre-Listing (Seller's) Inspections
This type of inspection is usually performed by a seller before a property is listed or announced for sale. The property owner will perform a Seller's Inspection to determine what damage or other problems exist with a property in order to determine factors such as fair market value, discount values, or any pre-listing expenditure necessary to increase the value and desirability of the property.
Home Maintenance Inspection
Cars are taken in for tune-ups, people get annual check-ups, and so should your home.
A Home Maintenance Inspection should be done annually to protect what is most people's largest investment...your home!
Small problems, from missed maintenance, can pop up periodically and should be corrected to minimize the cost of repair. Small issues can turn into large issues, which can turn into expensive repairs or replacement of systems or components. A Home Maintenance Inspection can catch those issues to ensure the money for replacement stays in your pocket and not in the hands of someone else.
